How to Identify Your Face Shape

Stand in front of a mirror with your hair pulled back. Look at the proportions: Is your face longer than it is wide, or equal? Are your cheekbones, forehead, and jawline similar widths, or do they vary? Where is your face widest?

The most common face shapes are oval, round, square, heart, diamond, oblong/rectangular, and triangle. Most people fall into one of these categories, though combination shapes exist.

OVAL FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Slightly longer than wide. Soft, rounded features. Balanced proportions across forehead, cheekbones, and jawline. The most versatile and balanced face shape.

Makeup Goal

Enhance your naturally balanced proportions without drastically changing them. The focus is on subtle sculpting and bringing attention to your best features.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Lightly contour along the hairline and temples, blending toward the middle of the forehead
• Cheeks: Contour below the cheekbones, blending from ears toward the middle of cheeks (not too high)
• Jawline: Lightly contour along the jawline, but keep application subtle

Highlighting Placement

• Center of forehead (draws the eye upward)
• Tops of cheekbones (emphasizes bone structure)
• Center of chin (brightens and balances)
• Bridge of nose (creates cohesion)

Blush Placement

Apply blush to the apples of the cheeks or slightly higher on the cheekbones. Because oval faces are balanced, blush can be applied in the traditional location without concern. Blend upward and outward.

ROUND FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Equal width and length. Soft, curved features. Full cheeks. Rounded jawline and forehead.

Makeup Goal

Add definition and create the illusion of length. Make the face appear slightly more sculpted and angular by strategically placing shadows vertically.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Contour along the temples and hairline, blending upward (not downward, which would widen the face)
• Cheeks: Apply contour deeply into the hollow of the cheeks, creating a line from ear to corner of lips—this adds definition
• Jawline: Apply contour under the jaw from just below the ear all the way to the chin—this adds length
• Sides of Face: Bring contour down the sides of the face vertically to create elongation

Highlighting Placement

• Center of forehead (draws eye upward)
• Tops of cheekbones (creates lift)
• Center of chin (adds length)

Blush Placement

Apply blush slightly higher than on other face shapes, positioning it on the upper apples of cheeks and blending upward toward temples. Avoid applying too low, which would emphasize roundness.

SQUARE FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Equal width and length. Broad forehead. Strong, angular jawline. Prominent cheekbones. Angular, structured features.

Makeup Goal

Soften angular features and create the illusion of a more rounded, balanced appearance. Focus on blending contour in soft, circular motions rather than harsh lines.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Contour along the hairline and sides to soften the width
• Temples: Apply contour in diagonal motions on all four corners of the face
• Cheeks: Contour below cheekbones in a C-shape from ear around cheekbone—keep application rounded, not angular
• Jawline: Focus on the squarest points of the jawline, using soft, circular blending motions

Highlighting Placement

• Center of forehead
• Tops of cheekbones
• Center of chin
• Bridge of nose

Blush Placement

Apply blush in the apples of cheeks and blend in soft, circular motions—avoid harsh lines. Round the placement to soften the natural angles of the face.

HEART FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Wider forehead and cheekbones. Narrow, pointed chin. Often combined with strong jawline.

Makeup Goal

Balance a wider forehead with a narrower chin. Soften the forehead and add dimension to the lower face.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Contour along the sides of the forehead to soften width
• Temples: Apply contour along temples to create softness
• Cheeks: Skip heavy contour here as cheekbones are already prominent
• Jawline: Apply contour along the jawline to add definition to the lower face

Highlighting Placement

• Concentrate highlighting on the chin and lower face to add dimension
• Apply concealer to center of forehead and chin for brightness
• Bridge of nose (for cohesion)

Blush Placement

Apply blush toward the inner cheekbones (closer to the nose) rather than outer cheeks. This balances the wider forehead by concentrating color centrally.

DIAMOND FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Narrow forehead and chin. Wide at the cheekbones. Pointed chin. Angular features.

Makeup Goal

Soften the most angular points of the face (cheekbones and chin) and add width to the forehead and jawline.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Contour along the temples and hairline (soft application to avoid looking hollow)
• Cheeks: Nestle contour into the hollows and along the cheekbones to soften angular points
• Chin: Contour along the sides of the chin to soften the point

Highlighting Placement

• Forehead (to create width)
• Under eyes (to brighten)
• Chin (to add definition)

Blush Placement

Apply blush high on the cheekbones and blend upward and outward. Avoid placing it too low, which would emphasize width.

OBLONG/RECTANGULAR FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Longer than it is wide. Straight forehead, cheeks, and jawline. Long chin.

Makeup Goal

Create the illusion of width to balance the length. Minimize the appearance of the long chin and forehead.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Apply contour to the top of the forehead to shorten its appearance
• Chin: Apply contour just under the chin to minimize length
• Cheeks: Contour below the cheekbones, keeping placement horizontal (not angled) to avoid further elongation
• Temples: Apply subtle contour to create width

Highlighting Placement

• Tops of cheekbones (create width)
• Bridge of nose (for cohesion)
• Skip chin highlight to avoid drawing the eye downward

Blush Placement

Apply blush horizontally across the cheeks to create width. Blend outward toward the ears rather than upward.

TRIANGLE FACE SHAPE

Characteristics

Wider jawline. Narrower forehead and cheekbones. Prominent chin.

Makeup Goal

Add width to the forehead and upper face while softening the strong jawline. Create balance between the upper and lower face.

Contouring Placement

• Forehead: Very light contour to subtly define
• Jawline: Focus contour application here to soften and define
• Chin: Contour around the chin to create definition

Highlighting Placement

• Forehead (to add width and balance)
• Cheekbones (to emphasize upper face)
• Inner corners of eyes (to open the face)

Blush Placement

Apply blush higher on the cheekbones and blend upward. Avoid placing it too low or too far toward the jawline, which would emphasize width there.

Eye Shape Makeup Techniques

Beyond face shape, eye shape dramatically affects makeup application. Understanding your eye shape ensures eyeshadow, eyeliner, and mascara placement enhances your natural structure.

ALMOND EYES

Characteristics

Upturned at outer corners. Symmetrical. Balanced eye proportions. Often considered the “ideal” eye shape that most makeup tutorials reference.

Makeup Approach

Almond eyes are incredibly versatile. Nearly any eyeshadow, eyeliner, or mascara technique flatters them. The goal is to enhance rather than fix.

Specific Techniques

• Eyeliner: Wing eyeliner flatters almond eyes beautifully, enhancing their natural lift
• Eyeshadow: Define the outer corners with darker shadow to elongate, or try a soft smoky blend
• Mascara: Apply to top lashes for full, dramatic effect

ROUND EYES

Characteristics

Prominent, large appearance. Equal width in all directions. Soft, open look.

Makeup Approach

You can either elongate round eyes to mimic the almond shape, or accentuate their roundness for a doe-eyed effect.

Specific Techniques to Elongate

• Eyeshadow: Apply darker shade to outer corners, blending in a v-shape to create elongation
• Mascara: Focus on top lashes only (skip bottom) for a more lifted appearance
• Eyeliner: Use a winged liner to lift the outer corners

Specific Techniques to Accentuate

• Eyeshadow: Blend lighter shade all over the lid
• Eyeliner: Tightline with dark eyeliner
• Mascara: Apply to both top and bottom lashes to amplify roundness

HOODED EYES

Characteristics

Fold of skin comes over the lash line. Can be natural or age-related. Limited visible eyelid space.

Makeup Approach

The key to hooded eyes is strategic eyeshadow placement that works with, not against, the natural fold.

Specific Techniques

• Primer: Use an eyeshadow primer to lock makeup in place and prevent creasing
• Eyeshadow: A smokey eye works beautifully—apply darker color at the lash line and blend upward and outward
• Placement: Smudge eyeliner on the upper outer corners for sultry definition
• Tip: Keep inner lid lighter and blend darkness outward to open the eyes

DOWNTURNED EYES

Characteristics

Outer corners point downward. Inner corners higher than outer corners. Eyes appear to have a sad or tired expression naturally.

Makeup Approach

Counteract the natural downward angle by lifting the outer corners visually with strategic eyeliner and eyeshadow placement.

Specific Techniques

• Eyeliner: Apply darker liner along the lash line and take it slightly beyond the outer corner with an upward flick to create lift
• Eyeshadow: Use lighter shades on the lid and blend them upward toward the brow bone—this draws attention upward
• Outer Corner: Add a touch of darker shadow to the outer corners but blend it upward (not downward) to maintain the lifting effect
• Shimmer: Shimmery shadows on downturned eyes are stunning and help the eyes pop

MONOLID EYES

Characteristics

No visible crease between the lash line and brow bone. Smooth eyelid without a defined fold.

Makeup Approach

With a monolid, eyeliner placement is crucial. Traditional eyeliner can disappear into the lid, so strategic application is key.

Specific Techniques

• Eyeliner: A thick flick liner works beautifully because it covers the eyelid space and makes the eye appear longer and more lifted
• Placement: Basic eyeliner should be placed strategically—if not placed carefully, it can make monolid eyes look smaller
• Eyeshadow: Apply eyeshadow to the outer corner to add dimension and create the illusion of an eyelid crease
• Mascara: Apply generously to top lashes to open the eyes

CLOSE-SET EYES

Characteristics

Eyes positioned close together with minimal space between them.

Makeup Approach

Create the illusion of more space between the eyes by strategically placing light and dark colors.

Specific Techniques

• Eyeshadow: Apply lighter shade to inner corners and darker to outer corners for an elongating effect
• Eyeliner: Avoid lining the inner corner; focus eyeliner on the outer two-thirds of the eye
• Highlight: Place highlight on inner corners to emphasize space

WIDE-SET EYES

Characteristics

Eyes positioned farther apart than typically ideal.

Makeup Approach

Minimize the appearance of space by bringing color and definition inward.

Specific Techniques

• Eyeshadow: Apply darker shade to inner corners to draw them inward
• Eyeliner: Extend eyeliner from the inner corner outward for a connecting effect
• Brows: Keep eyebrows closer together to visually narrow the distance between eyes

Universal Contouring and Highlighting Principles

The Golden Rule

Work toward an oval-shaped face, which is considered the most balanced. However, if your natural shape is beautiful to you, enhancement is optional—correction is only necessary if desired.

Blending is Everything

The most important makeup technique, regardless of face or eye shape, is blending. Harsh lines look unnatural; seamless blending creates a sculpted, intentional look.

Choose the Right Contour Color

Contour should be 1-2 shades darker than your skin tone and mimic natural shadows.

• Fair to Light Skin: Cool-toned taupes mimic soft shadows
• Medium Skin: Neutral or slightly warm browns
• Deep Skin: Rich, deep browns with cool or neutral undertone

Universally Flattering Placement

• Hollows of cheeks (apply by sucking in cheeks, finding the hollow, and placing contour there)
• Jawline definition
• Sides of forehead
• Sides of nose (for subtle slimming)

Highlighter Placement (Universal)

• Tops of cheekbones (where light naturally hits)
• Bridge of nose
• Center of forehead
• Inner corners of eyes (to open)
• Top of cupid’s bow (to enhance lips)

Combination Face and Eye Shapes

Not everyone fits neatly into one category. If you have a combination face or eye shape, identify the most prominent features and customize your techniques.

For example, you might have a wider forehead like a heart shape but a strong jawline like a square. Apply forehead softening techniques combined with jawline definition to balance both areas.

Step-by-Step Process for Customizing Your Makeup

Step 1: Identify Your Face Shape

Stand with hair pulled back. Determine if your face is longer than wide, equal proportions, or specific features are prominent.

Step 2: Identify Your Eye Shape(s)

Examine your eyes. Are they upturned, round, hooded, downturned, or monolid? Are they close-set or wide-set?

Step 3: Choose Your Technique

Select the contouring, highlighting, and eye makeup techniques that apply to your specific shapes.

Step 4: Invest in Quality Products

High-quality products with excellent blendability and longevity make a massive difference. Invest in a good contour product, highlighter, eyeshadow palette, and eyeliner.

Step 5: Practice and Refine

Makeup application is a skill. With practice, you will develop muscle memory and intuition about what works for your unique features.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Over-Blending: While blending is essential, over-blending can muddy colors and make makeup look flat
• Too Much Contour: Contour should be subtle. Build gradually rather than applying too much initially
• Ignoring Your Eye Shape: Following makeup tutorials designed for different eye shapes can result in features looking smaller or less flattering
• Wrong Eyeliner Placement for Your Eyes: Strategic placement is crucial—incorrect placement can close off your eyes rather than opening them
• Not Using Primer: Primer ensures makeup stays in place and blends smoothly

Bottom Line

Your face shape and eye shape are unique, and your makeup should be customized accordingly. Understanding your specific features allows you to enhance rather than fight your natural structure.

The goal of makeup is not to look like a filter or a completely different person—it is to feel confident and beautiful in your own face. Use these techniques as guidelines, experiment, and discover what makes you feel most like yourself. That is the truest makeup magic.