Why This Debate Matters Now

Fashion is responsible for a huge share of global emissions, resource use, and pollution, and leather is one of the most resource-intensive materials in the industry. At the same time, many traditional faux leathers are made from plastics that don’t biodegrade and can shed microplastics into the environment.

New plant-based and mycelium innovations are changing the landscape, which means the old “real is always better” vs. “vegan is always better” narrative no longer makes sense. What really matters is how a material is made, how long it lasts, and how you use it.

The Environmental Cost of Real Leather

Real leather starts with livestock, and livestock is one of the most land- and resource-hungry parts of our food system. Cattle farming drives deforestation, contributes heavily to greenhouse gas emissions, and uses huge amounts of water and feed, even before hides become leather.

Once the hides reach the tannery, the impact continues. Around 90% of leather is still chrome-tanned, using chemicals like chromium, formaldehyde, and other substances that can pollute water and soil if not properly managed. Life-cycle analyses suggest cow leather can have a carbon footprint of around 110 kg CO2e per square metre, almost seven times higher than typical synthetic leather by the same area.

Water use is also extreme: estimates suggest a single leather tote can represent more than 17,000 litres of water when you include the animal’s lifetime and the tanning process. In regions with weaker regulations, tannery wastewater can create serious local health and environmental problems.

The Hidden Issues With Classic Faux Leather

Traditional faux leather is usually made from plastics like polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), coated onto a fabric backing. This means it avoids animal use and heavy chrome tanning, so its carbon footprint and water use per square meter are generally lower than cow leather.

But there are important downsides. PU and PVC are fossil-fuel-derived, so their production still emits greenhouse gases and depends on non-renewable resources. PVC in particular has a very negative environmental profile because of chlorine-based chemistry and dioxin emissions over its life cycle.

Classic faux leather also does not biodegrade and can sit in landfills for decades or centuries, slowly shedding microplastics into waterways and ecosystems. When low-quality faux pieces crack or peel after a short time, replacing them repeatedly often cancels out the climate advantage they had over one long-lasting leather item.

Plant-Based and Mycelium Alternatives

The most exciting changes are happening in a third category: next-generation materials made from plants and fungi. These aim to reduce animal use and plastic dependence at the same time.

Mycelium “Mushroom” Leather

Mycelium leather, often known under names like Mylo, is made from the root-like structure of fungi grown on organic matter in controlled environments. It can be grown in weeks rather than the years it takes to raise cattle, which means far lower land and water requirements.

Producers emphasise Green Chemistry, carefully screening dyes and finishing agents to avoid the most hazardous substances. Because the base is mycelium instead of petroleum, mycelium leather has the potential to be more renewable and lower impact than both animal and conventional synthetic leather, while feeling surprisingly similar to the real thing.

Fruit and Plant Leathers

Several innovators now create leather-like materials from agricultural byproducts such as cactus, pineapple leaves, apple peels, banana stems, mango waste, and coconut husk fibres. Cactus leather, for example, uses prickly pear leaves that grow with very little water and are turned into a flexible, durable material without PVC or toxic plasticisers.

Pineapple leather (often sold under the name Piñatex) is made from pineapple leaf fibres, a waste stream that doesn’t require additional land or pesticides and can even help avoid emissions that would come from burning the leaves. Apple leather repurposes waste from the juice and cider industry, turning peels and cores into a soft, usable material.

These materials are generally free from the worst chemicals used in chrome tanning and PVC production, and many versions are partially or fully biodegradable, depending on binders and coatings.

Durability: The Key Practical Question

From a purely environmental point of view, there is strong evidence that classic cow leather has a much higher climate and water footprint per square metre than synthetic leather. However, that does not automatically mean every faux leather piece is greener in real life, because durability and how often you replace items also matter.

High-quality real leather can last for decades when cared for, developing a patina rather than cracking, and it can often be repaired and resold. Many low-cost PU and PVC items, by contrast, can peel or flake after just a few seasons, at which point they usually end up in landfill.

This is why some sustainability experts argue that one well-made leather item, used and repaired for many years, can have a lower lifetime impact than several cheap faux pieces that wear out quickly. The newest plant-based and mycelium leathers aim to close this durability gap while keeping their environmental benefits, but they are still relatively young technologies.

How to Choose: A Simple Decision Framework

Because there is no one perfect material, it helps to think in terms of priorities and how you personally use your wardrobe.

If You Prioritise Longevity and Repair

Look for high-quality, responsibly tanned leather from brands that publish information about their tanneries and sourcing. Choose classic designs you can see yourself using for ten years or more, and commit to maintaining and repairing them.

If You Prioritise Avoiding Animal Products

Avoid PVC-based faux leathers and look for PU‑based or, ideally, plant-based and mycelium alternatives from transparent brands. Check whether the brand discloses how much of the material is plant content versus synthetic binders and how they handle end-of-life.

If You Prioritise Overall Environmental Impact

Consider both production and use phase: a lower-impact material that falls apart quickly is not truly sustainable. Look for certifications, life cycle assessments, and third-party data where available, especially for newer materials such as mycelium and fruit leathers.

Secondhand: The Overlooked Third Option

One of the most sustainable choices is often buying secondhand, whether that is vintage leather or pre-loved vegan pieces. Because the impact of production has already happened, extending the life of an existing item through resale keeps it in circulation and reduces the demand for new material.

Vintage leather can be especially compelling: many older pieces were made to last, and with a little conditioning and repair they can easily serve another decade.

What the Future Looks Like

The industry is moving quickly. Traditional tanneries are experimenting with chrome-free and vegetable tanning processes to reduce pollution, while chemical companies and startups are racing to scale plant-based and mycelium leathers that are less dependent on plastics.

As more data from independent life cycle assessments becomes available, it will be easier to compare different materials on a level playing field and move beyond marketing claims.

Practical Takeaways for Your Wardrobe

The most ethical and sustainable choice is rarely about picking one “perfect” material and banning all others; it is about buying less, choosing better, and using what you own for as long as possible.

In practice, that might look like this: invest in one or two timeless, well-made leather or next‑gen alternative pieces; avoid disposable faux items that will crack quickly; explore secondhand; and support brands that are honest about both the strengths and limitations of the materials they use.